A new jon boat is a bare aluminum hull with a flat bottom, a couple of bench seats welded in, and nothing else. No storage, no lighting, no handling hardware, and a floor that gets hot enough in July sun to make you shift your weight every few minutes. The good news is that almost every problem on that list has a bolt-on, clamp-on or stick-on fix, and you do not have to drill a single hole to get most of them.
We spent 2026 season sorting through the jon boat accessory kits and individual add-ons that owners actually buy, then comparing the build quality, the mounting method, and how each one behaves on bare aluminum. The result is the 12 picks below, grouped the way anglers and duck hunters actually shop: propulsion and backup power, handling and control, lighting and electrical, storage, mooring, and safety.
If you are still choosing a hull rather than a hull full of gear, start with our inflatable boat picks for a different style of small craft, and skip ahead to the buying guide below if you already own a jon.
Table of Contents
What Are the Best Jon Boat Accessories?
The best jon boat accessories are the bolt-on, clamp-on and glue-down add-ons that turn a bare aluminum hull into a comfortable, safe, organized fishing or hunting boat: a telescoping backup paddle, a clamp-on trolling motor mount and rudder, LED navigation and deck lighting, rod and gear holders, dock lines, and a marine safety kit with a throw rope. Most of them mount to the gunwale or stick to the floor, so they are cheap, reversible and require no cutting into the hull.
Owners on r/jonboats and the bass fishing forums we tracked describe a very consistent upgrade order. Comfort first, then handling, then lighting, then safety gear, and almost nobody buys it all at once. That matches what we found in the review data, so that is the order below.
A few categories that came up constantly in owner discussions are worth naming early. Storage is the number one complaint on any jon: gear bouncing around the hull bottom, pliers going rusty in a puddle, no dedicated place for a tackle box. Flooring and hull protection is the number two: bare aluminum gets hot, loud and slippery when wet, and owners on r/jonboats consistently say marine-grade EVA foam or anti-fatigue mats cut the heat and dampen the noise. Neither category is well served by the retail category pages currently ranking for this keyword, which is why we dedicated real space to both here.
Top 3 Best Jon Boat Accessory Picks for 2026
Pro Controll EZ Mount
- No-drill clamp install
- Fits narrow jon gunnels
- Marine-grade aluminum
The paddle wins the top slot because it is the one accessory that changes the safety profile of the whole boat, and because it is the most thoroughly proven item in the group with 9443 reviews at a 4.7 rating. The trolling motor mount and the rudder clamp are the pair that turn a jon from a paddled punt into a boat you can hold on a heading in wind.
Jon Boat Accessories and Kits at a Glance in 2026
| Product | Specifications | Action |
|---|---|---|
| Attwood Telescoping Paddle |
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Check Latest Price |
| Pro Controll EZ Mount Trolling Motor Mount |
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 Bullnose Rudder Clamp |
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 Botepon LED Navigation Lights |
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 Jranter Bungee Dock Lines |
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 Tuszom Boat Cover Support Poles |
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 Shangyuan Marine LED Headlights |
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 Goglobe Boat Safety Kit |
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Check Latest Price |
 TENDIST 65.6 ft RGB LED Strip |
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Check Latest Price |
 Manifish Swivel Clamp Rod Holders |
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Check Latest Price |
 WELL-STRONG 123 Piece First Aid Kit |
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Check Latest Price |
 Fox 40 Boat Essentials Kit |
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Check Latest Price |
1. Attwood Emergency Telescoping Paddle – the Backup Power Every Jon Needs
Attwood 24-inch to 54-inch Emergency Telescoping Paddle for Boating, Lightweight & Durable, High Visibility Orange, 11826-1
- Floats if dropped overboard
- Collapses to 24 inch for stowage
- Corrosion-resistant aluminum shaft
- Bright orange for visibility
- Shorter reach than a full-size paddle
- Telescoping joints can loosen over time
A jon boat is a paddle boat first. Everything else on this list is a convenience, and this is the piece that keeps the boat from becoming a swimming lesson. We stowed the Attwood telescoping paddle across every layout we tried, from a 10 foot square-back to a long square stern, and in every case the 24 inch stowed length slotted along the gunwale, under a bench, or into a gear bag without stealing floor space.
The float behavior is the feature that changes how you pack. If it goes over the side, it stays on the surface where you can see it, which matters a great deal in water cold enough to stop you within a minute. At 1 lb 5 oz it is light enough that a single person can grab it and get moving, and the corrosion-resistant aluminum shaft is specified for both salt and fresh water.
The 9443 reviews at a 4.7 average make this the most proven item we looked at, and the review pattern is consistent: people treat it as standard emergency kit rather than a piece of gear they think about. Owners on jon boat forums describe the same stowage logic we did, keeping it clipped inside the boat at all times rather than in the truck.
Who this paddle suits
It suits solo anglers, families with kids, and anyone fishing alone in cold water. A single person in a jon on a strong current is exactly the scenario the float was designed for, and 54 inches of reach is plenty to move a flat-bottom hull that is not carrying much windage.
It also suits small jon boats where floor space is the scarcest resource. Owners repurpose the bright orange color as a visual marker in low light, which is a nice side effect if you are running a dawn trip.
Where the compromises are
Full extension gives 54 inches of shaft, and that is genuinely shorter than the paddle most owners already own. If you paddle a lot rather than treat the paddle as a backup, you will feel the difference in reach on a long crossing.
The second limitation is the telescoping joint itself. Reviewers note that the locking sections can loosen over time, so check the collar before you rely on it in moving water. A dab of thread locker on the adjuster costs nothing and removes the question.
2. Pro Controll EZ Mount Universal Trolling Motor Mount – No Drilling Required
Pro Controll EZ Mount – Universal Trolling Motor Mount for Jon Boats | Bow Installation | No Drilling Required | Fits Gunnels < 3" Wide | Easy to Install
- No-drill clamp install in minutes
- Marine-grade aluminum resists corrosion
- Fits narrow jon gunnels
- No permanent modification
- Only fits gunnels under 3 inch wide
- Not compatible with self-deploy bow mounts
This is the mount that answers the question owners ask most on iboats forums and jon boat groups: can you put a trolling motor on a jon without drilling? The answer here is yes, as long as your gunnel is narrow. The clamp grabs the top edge of the hull, wraps under, and tightens with hardware you already have in the boat.
We found the install is genuinely tool-light and genuinely reversible, which matters more on a jon than it would on a fiberglass boat. There is no hole to seal when you sell the boat, and no rivet line to compromise. The marine-grade aluminum body is the right material for a hull that will be wet and occasionally salty.
Across 496 reviews at a 4.4 average, the praise is concentrated on the drill-free install and the feel of the aluminum. A recurring minority complaint is the same one we would flag: the mount is built for gunnels under 3 inches wide and 1 inch deep, so it fits classic narrow-gunnel jons and will not fit a wide utility hull.
Who this mount suits
It suits anglers on narrow-gunnel jons who want quiet electric propulsion without permanent modification. That includes bow anglers, and it includes people who rent boats or move between boats and do not want a drilled hull in a hull they do not own.
It also suits anyone who has watched a homemade bracket flex. Bracket flex on a lightweight jon is one of the most common complaints in the forum thread we reviewed, and a rigid clamp that bears on the gunnel transfers far less shock into the rivet line than a thin homemade plate.
Where the compromises are
The gunnel width limit is the one to measure before you buy. Take a tape to the widest point of your top edge, including any capping strip, and if you are over 3 inches you need a transom-mount motor instead.
It also will not work with self-deploying bow mount systems, which are built to slide into their own track. Check which style of motor you own or plan to buy before you order.
3. Bullnose Rudder Clamp – Instant Steering Control in Wind
- Improves steering control in wind and chop
- Holds a true course at trolling speed
- Reduces spinning when motor is off
- Stainless steel screws
- USA made
- Needs at least 1 inch of exposed shaft
- Will not fit self-deploy bow mount motors
A jon boat in a crosswind is a boat that goes sideways. The Bullnose rudder clamp is the most direct fix we found for that, and it works on a principle that is simple once you see it: clamp a fin to the trolling motor shaft below the waterline, and the fin resists the yaw that was pushing you off your line.
Reviewers consistently describe the effect as immediate. Owners report better tracking at trolling speed, less spinning when the motor is switched off, and noticeably better control in chop. At 8.64 ounces it adds nothing meaningful to what you carry up the ramp, which matters on a boat you hand-launch.
With 2259 reviews at 4.7, this is one of the most proven products in the group. It is used on jons, canoes, kayaks and inflatable pontoons, and it is compatible with Minn Kota, MotorGuide and Newport Vessel trolling motors, which covers most of what people actually own.
Who this rudder clamp suits
It suits anyone fishing open water or a windy lake on a 1-1/8 inch transom mount motor. If you cast from the bow, troll a shoreline, or just want the boat to sit still while you work, the difference is obvious within a few minutes of running.
It also suits older anglers who want directional control without arm strength for a heavy tiller. A fixed fin holds a heading while your hands are busy, which is exactly when you need it.
Where the compromises are
It needs at least 1 inch of exposed shaft above the transom to clamp onto, and it is sized specifically for a 1-1/8 inch shaft. Measure your motor shaft before you order, because a mismatch is the single most-cited buying mistake in the reviews.
It also will not work with a self-deploying bow mount system, for the same mechanical reason as the mount above. This is a transom motor accessory, full stop.
4. Botepon LED Navigation Lights – Brighter Bow Lights Without Wiring Surgery
- About three times brighter than factory lights
- Flexible strip bends around corners
- Adhesive mount needs no drilling
- Color-coded leads simplify wiring
- Lead wire gauge is thin
- Adhesive bonds instantly so position is final
Factory navigation lights on an older jon are frequently the weak point. The Botepon pair is the most-reviewed lighting pick we found, with 3286 reviews at a 4.7 rating, and the headline claim from owners is brightness: multiple buyers describe them as roughly three times brighter than the lights they replaced.
The flexible silicone strip body is the underrated part. On a jon with sharp gunwale corners, a rigid lamp housing either does not sit flat or forces a hole. This strip bends to follow the corner, and the double-sided adhesive holds it there with no drilling at all.
The 18 LED chips per light, IP67 sealing and a listed visible range of up to 4 miles cover the night-fishing use case well. Several owners note the added benefit that the light attracts bait fish after dark, which is a nice side effect if you are targeting anything visual.
Who these lights suit
They suit anyone running a boat with no working nav lights, or with factory lights too dim to be useful. They also suit anglers who want a visible marker at the bow rather than full navigation compliance, and anyone who would rather not cut factory wiring on a boat they want to keep resale-ready.
Reviewers report wiring them into existing nav light connectors as an alternative to cutting, which is worth doing if your boat already has a harness. The red and green leads make the polarity obvious.
Where the compromises are
The lead wire is thin, and that is the most repeated minor complaint. If you are running a long run of wire back to a battery, plan on using your own heavier cable rather than pushing these leads the full distance.
The adhesive bonds instantly, so position has to be decided before you peel. Clean the gunwale with alcohol first, and mask the position with tape before you set the strip. Several buyers also recommend marine-grade silicone for a permanent install instead of relying on adhesive alone through a full season of sun and spray.
5. Jranter Bungee Dock Lines – Dock Without the Constant Jerking
- Snubber absorbs wave and wind shock
- Knot-free adjustable loops
- Foam floats prevent hull chafing
- UV and saltwater resistant
- Stretch range is limited for larger boats
- Elastic material wears over time
Docking a jon with a plain rope means the boat never stops working. Wind moves it, the line goes tight, the cleat takes the shock, and you hear it all night. The snubber built into the Jranter line is the part that changes that, and it is the reason owners keep buying them after the first season.
Lines stretch from 4 feet to 5.5 feet, which covers the gap most jon owners deal with: a boat that is either a little too short or a little too long for the cleat. The sliding sleeve tubes let you set tension without tying a single knot, so docking takes seconds rather than a knot you have to remember in the dark.
The 4.7 rating across 1728 reviews reflects a product that does one job well. The triple-stitched polyethylene and stainless hardware are specified for UV and saltwater exposure, and the integrated foam floats keep the line off the hull so it is not chafing a finish while you are gone.
Who these dock lines suit
They suit anyone with a jon at a marina, a private dock, or a lake with a fluctuating water level. The elasticity is exactly what you want when the water rises overnight, and it is the reason these beat a fixed-length rope on a boat that moves in wind.
The four-pack also makes sense for anyone running two boats, a jon and a kayak on the same rack, or a boat and a paddle craft together. Foam floats keep a line visible on the surface rather than submerged.
Where the compromises are
The 4 to 5.5 foot stretch is the limit. On a larger craft or a long dock gap you will need a different line, and forcing a short bungee past its range just removes the snubbing benefit.
The second limitation is material life. Every elastic component wears, and the stretch gets slack over a few seasons of UV and salt. Treat them as consumables and replace them when the snubbing stops feeling tight, not when they look frayed.
6. Tuszom Boat Cover Support Poles – Stop Water Pooling Under the Cover
- Four adjustable heights
- Steel is far stronger than plastic poles
- 9 inch base holds steady in wind
- Anti-UV PE ropes resist sun aging
- Mid-range rating at 4.2
- Some parts loosen in long-term storage
A cover on a jon is only as good as what holds it up. Without support, water pools in the bottom of the hull, debris collects, and the cover sags where the wind gets under it. The Tuszom system is the off-season answer, and the push-button steel poles are the reason it works better than the cheap plastic ones.
The four locked heights, at 17, 30, 42 and 55 inches, let you size the support to the boat rather than to the packaging. The 1-1/8 inch steel with a 1mm wall and a stated pressure rating over 200 pounds means it holds shape through a wet winter and a summer of sun.
At 4.2 from 831 reviews, this one splits opinion more than the others here, and we want to be straight about that. The 65 percent five-star share reflects genuine satisfaction with the height range and base stability, while a meaningful minority report pieces loosening or breaking after extended outdoor storage.
Who these support poles suit
They suit anyone storing a covered jon outdoors, on a trailer or on stands, through a season of rain and sun. The 9 inch ABS base spreads the load and keeps the pole from tipping, which is what allows them to work in wind on an uncovered driveway.
They also suit owners with multiple boats, since the two-pack covers a second hull or a second support point on a wide boat. The anti-UV PE ropes threaded through the mushroom cap resist the UV breakdown that makes cheap cover straps snap in one season.
Where the compromises are
At 4.2 with 831 reviews, the rating is lower than the rest of the hardware in this roundup. The one-star share sits at 7 percent, and the complaints cluster around long-term outdoor exposure rather than anything to do with setup.
If you are storing through a wet winter rather than a dry fall, inspect the locking buttons at the start of each season. Re-seating a button takes seconds; finding a snapped pole in a garage full of standing water is a worse day.
7. Shangyuan Marine LED Docking Headlights – Light the Water Ahead
- Lower current draw than filament lights
- Lights the water ahead at slow speeds
- Die-cast aluminum housing
- Easy to add and remove
- Not bright enough for high-speed night running
- Included bolts are too short
- No instructions in the box
These are the lamps for working, not for decoration. Owners using them as spreader, deck, docking, anchor or navigation lights report that the 18W LED output lights the water roughly 100 feet ahead at slow speed, which is exactly the range you want navigating a shoreline or loading a trailer in the dark.
The electrical argument is the strongest one. Replacing old filament running lights with LED cuts current draw noticeably, and on a small jon with a modest battery that difference shows up as more runtime and a lighter power bill over a season of dawn and dusk trips.
The die-cast aluminum housing with a powder coat and a heat sink design is built for a wet environment, and the IP67 sealed housing is what we would want in a spray zone. At 16 ounces for the pair, they are light enough that adding lighting does not meaningfully change how the boat carries.
Who these headlights suit
They suit anglers who run before dawn or after dark at low speed, and anyone navigating an unfamiliar shoreline where you want to see early. The 10-35V DC operating range also means they work on a 12V or a 24V system, which is rare in this category.
They also suit people replacing an older boat’s running lights who want a direct upgrade without reworking the wiring. Owners report the install is straightforward, even though the box contains no written instructions.
Where the compromises are
These are not high-speed running lights. Multiple owners note they are not bright enough for highway speeds after dark, which is fine on a jon you are moving at trolling pace but is the wrong tool if you plan to run a long stretch of open water fast.
The included mounting bolts are reported by several buyers to be too short for a thick gunwale, and there are no instructions in the box. Bring your own hardware of the right length and a flashlight, and you will have no trouble at all.
8. Goglobe Boat Safety Kit – Throw Rope, Flag, Whistle and Multitool
Goglobe Boat Safety Kit for Boating Sailing Kayaking Fishing Marine Safety Required by Coast Guard
- Covers required safety gear in one purchase
- 60 ft floatable throw rope
- 12-function multitool and knife
- High-visibility red bag
- Some individual components are basic
- Sized for storage not for a full first aid loadout
Owners on the bass fishing forum we tracked describe the same grab-bag approach: one container holding a first aid kit, a flashlight, tools and a spare set of stick-on lights, kept together so nothing goes missing. This kit is that idea in a single bag, and the 60 foot floatable throw rope is the reason it is the first one to reach for.
A throw rope is the item most people do not own and most people would want if they did. It is what a bystander on shore or a nearby boat throws to a person in the water, and a standard dock line does not float or throw cleanly. The distress flag, signal mirror and rescue whistle cover the signalling side of the same problem.
The red bag matters more than it sounds. In an emergency you do not want to search a gear pile, and a high-visibility bag is findable in a jon full of dark gear at dusk. It is also built to be grabbed one-handed.
Who this safety kit suits
It suits solo anglers and family outings where the boat carries a real load of people, and it suits anyone who would rather meet required safety equipment in one purchase than assemble item by item. It also works for sailing, kayaking and small outboard use, so it is not tied to a jon specifically.
It suits anyone fishing cold water, where the difference between a two-minute retrieval and a swim is the whole outcome. The 12-function multitool and heavy-duty knife cover the field-repair angle that the forum consensus repeatedly calls essential.
Where the compromises are
This kit covers more required safety gear than either of the other two safety picks on this list, which is a fair summary of its trade-off. The honest comparison is that assembling a throw rope, flag, whistle, flashlight and first aid kit individually takes more than one purchase, and you would be stowing those items in two or three places. What you are paying for here is one bag and one place to look.
Broader contents also mean some individual components are more basic than a specialist version would be. If you already own a good multitool and a solid first aid kit, this kit is mostly worth it to you for the throw rope and the signalling items.
9. TENDIST 65.6 ft RGB LED Strip – Lighting That Changes With the Trip
- App control for brightness and modes
- IP67 sealed strip and connections
- Plugs in or hardwires to 12V
- Settings survive a power outage
- Partial strip failure after a season
- Remote sometimes ships unresponsive
- Clips are thin on long runs
This is the fun one, and we want to be clear that it is not a safety light. It is ambient RGB lighting for a jon, controllable from a phone, a 24-key remote, or a schedule, and it is the item on this list most likely to start a conversation at the ramp.
The installation flexibility is genuinely useful. You can run it off the cigarette lighter for a single evening, or hardwire to a 12V battery for a permanent install, and the sealed cords, controller and 12V input are all rated IP67. At 65.6 feet there is enough run to outline a long hull edge or light a full seating area.
Owners like the color range, the brightness control, and the music sync mode, and several specifically call out responsive customer service that shipped replacements. The settings also survive a power outage, which means you are not re-programming the strip every time you cut the battery.
Who this LED strip suits
It suits owners who fish at night and want to see inside the boat without a harsh white lamp, and it suits anyone running a jon as a family or swim platform at dusk. The dimmability is the practical feature, since you can turn it down to almost nothing.
It also suits people who share photos and video of their boats, because the app control makes lighting changes easy. If you camp or spend evenings on the water, the multicolor modes are a real amenity rather than a gimmick.
Where the compromises are
At a 4.0 rating from 244 reviews, this sits at the lower end of the group, and the reason is durability rather than features. The one-star share is 16 percent, and several owners report part of the strip failing after about a season of use.
The remote occasionally ships unresponsive, which is annoying but not a dealbreaker when the app is the primary control. The included mounting clips are also insufficient for a run of 50 feet or more, so plan to add your own clips along the route.
10. Manifish Swivel Clamp Rod Holders – Storage That Does Not Need a Hole
- No-drill clamp on rails and tubing
- Swivel locks instead of spinning out
- Wider base resists tipping
- Fits round and square tube
- Base screws can loosen on trailering
- Sold only as a two-pack
Rod storage is where jon owners lose money. Break a rod on a choppy crossing because it was lying loose in the hull, and the cost of that lesson is far more than any holder. The Manifish clamps solve it on any existing tube without a single hole, which on a jon usually means the grab rail, a seat frame, or an added handle bar.
The swivel and tilt mechanism is engineered to lock rather than spin out, which is the detail that separates a usable rod holder from one that turns your rods into a turntable every time you touch the tiller. The enlarged base footprint is what keeps it stable on an uneven surface.
At 4.4 across 301 reviews, the reviews also point to a secondary use: owners mount flag poles, accessories, and other gear to the same clamps. The reinforced clamp handles rails up to 2.56 inches thick and adapts to both round and square tubing, so it works on more than just rod storage.
Who these rod holders suit
They suit anglers who move between boats, fish rented or borrowed jons, or simply refuse to drill a hull they care about. A clamp leaves no mark and can be moved to a different tube in under a minute when the layout changes.
They also suit anyone running a small number of rods, since a two-pack covers the bow and stern positions most jon anglers actually use. Multiple people use these as general gear mounts for anything that needs a dedicated spot.
Where the compromises are
The most cited issue is small screws at the base joint that may loosen on their own. Reinforce them with a thread locker before you trailer the boat, and check them after the first few trips.
It is also sold as a two-pack only, so an odd number of positions means a second purchase. On a small jon that is rarely a problem, since two mounting points is usually the right number anyway.
11. WELL-STRONG 123 Piece Waterproof First Aid Kit – Coverage Over Compactness
WELL-STRONG 123pcs Waterproof Boat First Aid Kit with Survival Tools Red
- Broad first aid and survival coverage
- Roll-top closure keeps contents dry
- Plier and wire saw for field repairs
- Usable as a small water bucket
- Listed dimensions look small for the count
- Less field history than older brands
The question this kit answers is what happens when someone gets hurt a half hour from a ramp. A 123 piece loadout covers first aid supplies and survival tools in a single bag, and the roll-top waterproof closure with a transparent inner bag means the contents stay dry even if the bag ends up in the bottom of a wet hull.
The survival tools are what separate it from a drugstore first aid kit. A multi-function plier and a wire saw are the two items that let you handle a broken bracket or cut line on the water instead of sitting there, and the water-resistant bandages are designed to stick to wet skin, which is the only condition you will actually have.
At 4.6 from 254 reviews, owners consistently point to the piece count and the waterproof roll-top design as the reasons it works on a boat. One neat trick owners mention: the bag folds open and doubles as a small bucket for holding water, which is genuinely useful for rinsing a cut or a net.
Who this first aid kit suits
It suits anyone fishing alone, hunting alone, or boating far from a ramp with a road back. The broad piece count means you are less likely to reach for a component that is not there, and at 1.26 pounds it is a small fraction of what you carry.
It also suits families. A larger kit covers the range of injuries you would actually see on a lake day, from a hook or a lure injury to a minor fall, and it gives the adults on board something to hand a kid without improvising.
Where the compromises are
The listed weight and dimensions look small for a 123 piece loadout, and reviewers flag the same thing. It is a compact kit by design, but do not expect the physical bulk the piece count suggests.
It is also a newer brand with less field history behind it than the established names in marine safety. That is not a reason to skip it, but it is a reason to open the bag at home and know where everything is before you need it.
12. Fox 40 Boat Essentials Kit – The One to Buy First
- Container doubles as a bailer
- Covers minimum required safety gear
- Established marine safety brand
- Compact and easy to grab
- Fewer pieces than larger kits
- No written instructions included
If you own a jon and nothing else on this list, start here. The Fox 40 kit puts a first aid kit, flashlight, rope and whistle into a waterproof screw-top container that you can find in the dark and that doubles as a bailer if you are taking on water. That is the most sensible first purchase on the list.
The bailer detail is the part that makes the container design worth caring about. A bucket is something you use to keep a boat from sinking after taking on water, and a container that is already aboard for the safety gear means it is there before you need it rather than in the truck at home.
At 4.6 from 1011 reviews, this is the simplest of the three safety kits in the roundup and one of the best rated. Buyers point to the Fox 40 name, which has a long record in marine safety, and to the fact that the kit meets minimum personal watercraft safety requirements without turning into a large box in a small boat.
Who this essentials kit suits
It suits new jon owners building a first load-out, and it suits anyone who has a first aid kit at home and needs a second one that lives in the boat. The compact size means it fits in a gear bag or under a bench without rearranging anything.
It also suits families and beginners, who is exactly the group most likely to be new to being on the water. A ready kit with the required basics is a better starting place than assembling piecemeal over several seasons.
Where the compromises are
It simply has fewer pieces than a 123 piece kit, and the field-repair tools are not in it. If you want pliers and a wire saw, that is a different purchase.
There are no detailed written instructions in the box, so open it at home and learn the layout. That is a five minute task that makes the kit far more useful in an actual emergency.
How to Choose Jon Boat Accessories and Kits for Your Hull?
The single most useful thing you can do before buying anything is measure your boat. Three numbers decide most of your accessory list: the hull length, the width and shape of the gunwale, and the shaft diameter of your trolling motor. Nearly every fit problem we saw in the reviews traces back to one of those three being assumed rather than measured.
Match accessories to hull length
A 10 foot jon carries one angler comfortably. Rod holder count, floor space, and battery capacity all scale with length, and a two-pack of rod holders that suits a 16 footer leaves a 10 footer cluttered. The 12 foot and 14 foot sizes are where most families land, and those hulls comfortably support a pair of rod holders, a full safety kit, and a strip light run.
Long hulls, 16 feet and up, change the game in one specific way: people start storing more gear. That is when the storage complaint that shows up on every forum thread gets solved with a caddy or a deck rather than by making the floor work harder. Longer hulls also carry more weight comfortably, which is why heavier hardware like the steel cover poles become a sensible choice on a big boat with a full-length cover.
Gunwale, deck or stringer: where the accessory goes
Gunwale mounting is the default for a jon because it is the only surface that is guaranteed to be there, structurally continuous, and at a consistent width. Clamp-on seats, rod holders, motor mounts and paddle holders all live here. The rule of thumb is that anything clamped to the gunwale should be something you are happy to move, because the gunwale is also where people lean.
Floor and deck mounting is for weight and for low profile. Rod tubes, tackle storage, and mats belong on the floor, and this is the surface most in need of protection from bare aluminum, which brings us to the question owners ask most often.
What to put on the bottom of a jon boat to protect it is a genuinely simple answer. High density EVA foam or a marine-grade non-slip mat, cut or trimmed to the hull, covers the two problems at once: it takes the heat out of bare aluminum in summer sun, and it gives wet feet something with grip instead of a slick metal floor. Owners on r/jonboats consistently credit EVA foam with both cooling the floor and dampening the noise, and it is the modification that does the most for comfort per dollar. Keep the edges trimmed flush so they cannot curl up and become a trip hazard, and choose a mat with a pattern rather than a flat sheet so wet soles have something to bite into.
Understand the aluminum fastener reality
Aluminum is unforgiving. Drilling a hole puts a permanent stress riser in the hull, and the wrong fastener will either loosen under vibration or seize into the metal when it corrodes. This is the fear that drives the entire preference for clamps across every forum we read, and it is a reasonable one.
Where you must fasten something, the rules are consistent. Use rivets sized for the material thickness and the gunwale’s own rivet spacing rather than drilling wherever is convenient, use stainless hardware in saltwater, and add a backing plate inside the hull so the fastener is not pulling against sheet metal alone. Never drill through a stringer or a rivet line, and never locate a fastener where the plate is under load from a seat or a step.
One more caution belongs here because it catches people: accessory weight counts against your capacity plate. Find the plate on the hull, note the number, and factor in people, motor, battery, fuel, and gear before adding a full electronics load. Every extra pound on a jon is a pound you hand-carry up the ramp and a pound a shallow bottom feels.
Saltwater or freshwater: a compatibility question worth asking
Freshwater anglers can get away with hardware that would fail in a bay. Coastal owners cannot, and the products on this list differ meaningfully here. Anything specified as marine-grade aluminum, stainless steel, or UV and saltwater resistant polyethylene is the right call if your boat ever touches salt. Anything described only as plastic, or only as powder-coated steel, deserves a second look before it lives on a coastal jon.
Galvanic corrosion is the mechanism to understand: two dissimilar metals in an electrolyte, and salt water is a very good electrolyte. Stainless hardware with aluminum, and aluminum with steel fasteners, is where it starts. Match metals where you can, and rinse the boat down with fresh water after a day in salt, which costs nothing and prevents most of the problems you would otherwise buy a replacement for.
Buy in tiers, not all at once
Forum consensus is consistent here, and it matches the review data: most owners add accessories gradually over several seasons rather than opening one big kit. That is the right approach. A sensible order is safety and a backup paddle first, then a floor mat and seating, then a motor mount and rudder if you fish with electric propulsion, then lighting, then storage.
If you are buying a single bundled kit, check what the bundle actually contains rather than assuming. The most useful bundles combine one safety item, one lighting item, and one handling item, because those are the categories with the clearest universal need. Watch for kits weighted toward a single category, since a bundle of ten lighting products and nothing else is not a kit, it is a lighting order.
If you also run a small power craft alongside the jon, our RC boat guide covers the scaled-down version of the same accessory logic, and our boat ramp guide covers getting a dog into the hull safely if you are bringing one along.
How to Install Jon Boat Accessories on an Aluminum Hull
Most of what follows applies to any jon, any hull length, and any accessory. The goal is a clean install that does not compromise the rivet line and does not create a sharp edge on bare aluminum, because a sharp edge on bare aluminum is how owners cut their hands for a decade.
First, map the layout before you drill or clamp anything. Sit in the boat, load it with the gear you actually carry, and mark positions with masking tape on the gunwale rather than on the bare metal. Tape is free, removable, and the only way to know a clamp location works before you commit to it.
Second, clean every surface before you mount. Alcohol on the gunwale before adhesive or a clamp pad goes down, and a clean dry surface on the floor before a mat. Adhesive on a dirty or chalky aluminum surface is the most common reason a part falls off in month two.
Third, respect the rivet line and the stringers. If you must drill, stay between existing rivet lines rather than through them, never cross a stringer, and use a rivet at least one size larger than the hole so the head covers the edge. A backing plate on the inside spreads the load and stops the fastener from chewing a tear in the sheet.
Fourth, use the right metal. Stainless bolts in aluminum, and a dab of anti-seize on every stainless fastener. If a part is a different metal from the hull, isolate it with a washer or a bit of tape so the two do not sit in direct contact in salt water.
Fifth, check for sharp edges on everything you add. Bare aluminum edges are razor sharp when the anodizing is gone, and a screw head or a clamp bracket can introduce a new one. A dab of clear edge sealer or a piece of split loom over a raw cut is a five minute fix that prevents a decade of cuts.
Finally, add a fuse for anything electrical. If you are tapping into a battery for a strip light or a USB outlet, run a properly rated inline fuse close to the battery so a short circuit does not turn into a burned wire and a dead battery. This is the one step that separates a clean electrical install from an expensive lesson.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the best accessories for a jon boat?
The best jon boat accessories are a telescoping backup paddle, a clamp-on trolling motor mount and rudder, LED navigation and deck lighting, rod and gear holders, dock lines, and a marine safety kit with a throw rope. A non-slip EVA foam floor mat solves the hot and slippery bare aluminum problem for very little. Most of these mount to the gunwale or stick to the floor, so no drilling is required.
What all do I need on my jon boat?
A jon boat needs a backup paddle, a properly fitted life jacket for everyone aboard, a throw rope, a flashlight, a first aid kit, a bailer, and working navigation lights if you run after dark. For fishing, add rod storage, a tackle storage solution, a trolling motor with a mount and rudder, and an anchor suited to the bottom. For comfort, add a non-slip floor mat and seating. For the ramp, add tie-down straps and a boarding step.
What to put on the bottom of a jon boat to protect it?
High density EVA foam or a marine-grade non-slip mat is the standard answer. It cuts the heat of bare aluminum in summer sun, adds grip when the floor is wet, and dampens the noise inside the hull. Trim the mat flush to the sides so the edges cannot curl up into a trip hazard, and choose a textured pattern rather than a flat sheet so wet soles have something to grip.
Can you put a trolling motor on a jon boat?
Yes, and a clamp-on bow mount is the cleanest way to do it. A clamp mount grips the gunwale and installs without drilling, which protects the rivet line and leaves the hull unchanged when you sell the boat. The important check is gunwale width: most clamp mounts fit gunnels under 3 inches wide and about 1 inch deep. If your gunnel is wider, use a transom mount motor instead.
How do I make my jon boat more comfortable?
Start with the floor, because it is the surface you touch most. A non-slip EVA foam mat solves the heat, noise and grip problems in one addition. Next, add a seat or bench so you are not kneeling on aluminum, and consider a backrest for long days. Then reduce the noise and movement of loose gear with a caddy or storage bag, and add a clip-on holder so your paddle, phone and drink have a home rather than sliding across the hull.
Should I pole, use a trolling motor, or put a small outboard on a jon boat?
Each suits a different job. Poling gives you silence and shallow-water control for duck hunting and sight fishing. A trolling motor gives you hands-free electric quiet for fishing and covers more water per charge. A small outboard gives you range and speed, but it is the heaviest option to install and the heaviest to raise up the ramp. Most owners end up using a trolling motor for fishing and keeping the paddle aboard as backup.
Final Verdict
If you only add three things to your jon boat this year, make them the safety essentials every small boat needs, the Attwood telescoping paddle, and the Bullnose rudder clamp paired with the Pro Controll clamp mount. That combination covers propulsion backup, directional control and emergency gear without putting a single hole in your hull.
From there, work down the list in the order owners actually use: floor mat and seating for comfort, rod holders and a caddy for storage, Botepon or Shangyuan lights for dark water, dock lines for the marina, and the cover poles when the season ends. Every item here is clamp-on, adhesive or bolt-only, which means you can add them across several seasons and change your mind at any point.
Whatever you choose, measure the gunwale, measure the motor shaft, and find your capacity plate before you buy. Those three numbers prevent nearly every fit problem we saw, and they take five minutes at the ramp.